Jan Norris: Food and Florida

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EatBeat: Former Leftovers Chef Opens Coolinary Cafe in Donald Ross Village; Fresh and Local are Key to Concept

March 9th, 2012 · No Comments

Deviled eggs at Coolinary Cafe /photo by Scott Simmons

Tim Lipman was crazy-busy on his fifth day in business as chef/owner with his spouse Jenny of the Coolinary Cafe. The former chef at Carmine’s Ocean Grill, Leftovers Cafe and the Food Shack opened his own small spot Monday, and it’s been non-stop now that word is out.

I talked with Jenny Lipman, who runs the front of the house and does whatever else is needed during the birth of a restaurant. She, too, was harried. “It’s been a little hectic and crazy,” she said. But she took time to talk about the cafe, located in Donald Ross Village in Palm Beach Gardens.

“Being a chef, he was ready for his own place. When this great opportunity came along, he just jumped at the situation.”

The small, 50-seat restaurant is a farm-to-table, sustainable, fresh product concept – and family owned. “Everything here is fresh, fresh, fresh. We have daily (food) deliveries, we make everything in house – ketchup, mustard, all our own sausages. We find it really makes a difference.”

Pan roasted wild mushroom salad with onion confit, wilted greens and creamy polenta /photo by Scott Simmons

They’re using as many local food producers as possible. “When we have to look farther, we’re going with small ranchers and farmers – family-owned places that care about their products. Wines on our list are from producers who have no more than 5,000 cases; we’re going with small craft beers as well.”

The menu is one page, featuring categories of Morsels, Starters, Sandwiches & Salads and Plates. Nothing on the menu is over $15, except for market-price seafood and some specials.

Comfort plates include a boneless Southern fried chicken with grilled lemon, slaw and a jalapeno cheddar waffle ($12); whole-wheat spaghetti with shrimp, cherry peppers, chard, tomato and fresh cheese ($13) and a gooey grilled cheese on artisanal bread with roasted tomatoes ($8).

Sides include a grain salad, mac and cheese and a farm fresh egg to be added to any dish.

The cafe is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., daily except Sunday – making for long days.
“Yeah, we’re a little tired this week, but we’re getting it. It’s coming together,” Julie said.

They’re hoping to add outdoor seating, she said. “We’re looking into it – as soon as we can clear it with the town and get permits.”

Reservations are a good idea for dinner, and with only 50 seats, expect a wait once word gets around.

Coolinary Cafe

  • 4650 Donald Ross Road, Palm Beach Gardens
  • 561-249-6760; coolinarycafe.com

Tags: The Eat Beat: Restaurant News

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